Hello everyone!
We wanted to give you additional updates as we won't be giving news next week. Before telling you why, here is a recap of the last week we spent.
First of all, we want to introduce you to Canoa, our host city. This city could hardly be more relaxed! This is mainly why we are still here. We're almost scared we might stay here forever, it's that good!
Canoa is a surf city but since it's the low season, surfers are most likely in another surfertown. There is more hotels per sqare-feet here than anywhere in the world! But since surfers are away, everything is empty. It's like a deadtown, farwest style with dust rolling in the wind and hotel owners waiting for tourist like a mortician waiting for a dual.
The beach is a long stretch full of bamboo furnitures made to host shops and restaurants during high season.
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Obviously, everything is closed. On the weekend, it gets a little bit more animated with locals coming over but nothing very alarming. Clubs do get their big speakers out but there is more noise than people. Honestly, the weekend vibe is quite a nice refreshing change.
With the amount of hotels, which we hear have to be reserved in advance on high season, Soa and Simon are well aware that they won't be coming around january.
The beautiful city of Canoa at that time of year will turn out, like many other towns, as a real touristic monster in few months. Some might be looking for that vibe but we're old so...
Life in Canoa |
The first one was San Vicente for which Simon had to go to withdraw money (only ATM machine in the region) and to buy tons of fruits. You could guess than San Vicente is not a really sexy town. One of the reason why-so is because half the streets are in construction. We might give you an entire new portrait next time.
We also had a nice 7km walk to Briceno beach, another ghost town, smaller than Canoa, with nothing special as it is also waiting for tourists to fill up the beach. Two restaurants were open on our visit and they got quite mad because like locals, we asked for the cheap almuerzo at 3$ (including soup, fish and juice) instead of the big langosta for 15$ as any gringos would order.
On our way to Briceno, we saw the entire food chain, beach version: thousands of "conches", small mussels waiting for claws or beaks to catch them.
And then, there is hundreds of mini-crabs hunting conches and hiding in their holes everytime the ground is vibrating. We get them, there might be 6 types of hunting birds waiting for their next meal!
Then there's pelicans filling up their box-beak with bunches of fish at the same time. How crazy can they dive every minute, they never stop!
Finally, the vulture... Simon calls them butcher. In high sea, we're pretty sure they're waiting for whales to die and have a feast. But on the coast, turtles are the main meal...
We also visited a real farwest town, Jama! You have to see the houses, streets and cactus to believe it.
It was really interesting to see.
This town is also full of wall paintings and arts; it's like kids took control over it: wonderful!
We finally ended our journey at El Matal, a real fisherman town that smells like fish 5 km around. There is as much boats as there is fish in the ocean. This little cove sounds like a very important port for nearby towns. They work hard and we congratulated them by having a good meal at their honor. Can't go fresher than that!
Finally, few words to describe that week: hamocks, fish, beach, sea, sunsets, pastries (miam), chocolate (oh ho!), reading, new friends and lots of fruits!
Therefore, after a full week of vacation (well needed), we've decided to go back to work because there is a farm here that offers quite a lot of what we're looking for.
The very famous finca Rio Muchacho is a agro-touristisc project that has been alive for 20 years. The farm specialize itself in permaculture, animals (and horses!) and is very much involved in the community.
We will tell you more soon: http://www.riomuchacho.com/
Hasta la proxima!
Simon et Soa
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