Salinas de Guaranda: culinary quest through the mountains

Hello family,

We would first like to excuse ourselves for the lack of news. The unbelievably long wait for visas and the laziness of our urban life made us a little bit sloppy.

In order to counter this spell and to pass time, we found a new couple's passion.

You know that game where you pick a random destination, with your finger, on a spinning globe?

Well that's our game... but with way more suspense!

So we go to Guayaquil's bus terminal and we pick a couragous guy (we prefer when luck picks one of us, but sometimes a perfect stranger gets the lucky opportunity to participate)

Then we ask the stranger to close his eyes, spin on himself 30 times with his finger pointing in front of him.

When the strange stranger finally stops turning (seriously, it's not very responsible for an adult to turn like that in a bus terminal), his drunk finger will point to one of the 45 bus companies.

Every company offers dozens of destination. We have plenty of time to pick one while our strange stranger catch his breath.

Our criterias are the following: fast departure, hours of travelling, cost of the trip.

Our game is named "human globe" and can be played everywhere; train station, airport, etc.

Please note that the patent is ours!

First time we played "human globe", we landed on Riobamba.

Today, we will tell you about our 4000 meters high honeymoon.

After destiny's finger made up his mind, we had 10 minutes to run to our ship-on-wheel.

Awesome! But...

You should know that Guyaquil's bus terminal is a huge shopping mall on 3 floors with terrestrial ships leaving from 6 differents exits (2 parkings per floors).

The departure door number is easy to find and is located on the ticket, but you have to find the floor number too, which will be announced by the ticket agent, only once.

Also, we're pretty sure that in order to get his gate agent diploma, that agent needs to win a who-whispers-the-quietest contest.

Also notice that there is plenty of numbers on the ticket which requires a great capacity to unscribbled it all. Between door number, bus number, seat number, ticket price, time and date, it's easy to get lost.

We managed to find our way because Soa is the daughter of a mathematician. Thank you Gérard!

So, four hours of hapiness on the road was ahead of us to reach Riobamba. The first two hours of the trip weren't quite inspiring. Just getting out of Guayaquil's traffic and it's suburbs was taking forever. Then followed an ocean of banana's jungles (which we remind you isn't very smooth on the eyes).

So we were very happy to watch a very touching story staring Halle Berry on the phone for 2h30 minutes. Obviously, because of a bump on the road (litteraly), we missed the punch line as the DVD skipped a scene!  

The rest of the trip tough was quite unbelievable. We were back to mountain views which makes us smile so much. It's quite special to live in a country where you can go from sea level to volcano in few hours.

Unfortunately, our first impression of Riobamba wasn't what we'd expected. We didn't enjoy the city's smell (lots of car farts) which feels more like a big city vibe than a andine treasure.

Let's just say that from Riobamba, the amazing view of the king, Chimborazo's volcano, is less romantic with car's honking every 15 seconds. We should also specify that we came to the mountains to breath fresh air.

We stayed one night to enjoy the animated city. Our hotel had presidential features but with serious renovation delays.

To resume: 4-stars potential with super small price. Perfect for us!

Mister Chimbo

Riobamba left us with few emotions, apart from a very good veggie burger at Brothers' café. But we admit, we didn't give the city a second chance.

We will have to come back.

Although, we were really excited at the prospect of our next destination. We heard that the way between Riobamba and Guaranda is breathtaking. The reason: we drive next to the volcano.

No luck there, very nice trip full of mountains and wild alpacas but the "King" turned is back on us.

We're not easily defeated! Next time, will be our lucky day.

Guaranda left us on a complete opposite feeling as Riobamba. On first sight, we were falling in love.

Crédit :Ivan Kashinsky

Capital of Bolivar's state, Guaranda is like a little Pujili in the mountains; with wet feet in the heart of the sierra, with his "red square"not red at all, encebollados as good as in the Manabi, very cheap vegetables...

Is that love?

Unfortunately, we were promised to someone else.

Therefore, we went to the search of the community taxi that would bring us to destination.

10 minutes later, we were in the terrestrial boat... 30 minutes later, we were on the road. Yes, "community transport" means it's cheap, but it also means you have to wait for it to fill up before leaving.

Once we were all very squeezed, we were off for a rollercoaster (never-ending zig-zags). Simon loved it, Soa less. But it was all worth it.

45 minutes of slalom later, we reached the end of the adventure... litteraly: Salinas, our final destination, was the last accessible village (by road).

What brought us here exactly?

Two words: culinary quest!

Historically, Salinas was a very poor community, like it's neighboors. But with the help of an italian preist, its socio-economical situation got way better starting in 1980.

Today, Salinas is a role model of communitary development based on a strong micro-organisations system.

With a strong will from the entire community, a little technological and educational help (sanitarization, equipment and expertise) and a lot, lot of work and patience, Salinas now shines of self-sufficiance and economical interdependancy.

Where do we start... let's go in preferential order:

artisanal cheeses, artisanal chocolates, artisanal jams, dry mushroom and fruits, essential oils, wool transformation and clothing making (alpaca, sheep, etc.) and salt mineries!

 

Salt mineries

So we arrived at 1pm and we took a room in one of the three communitary hotels in town.

Salinas is a 6000 people community but we really feel like there is no more than 500.

The Plaza: that's the place to be... when there is something happening!

We guess everyone is busy digging, picking, mowing, transforming, sewing, cooking or tasting their products.

Soa making new friends

We also wanted to taste everything! We spent all afternoon doing it. We do have to manifest our deception as we taught we would be able to test all of it, but it doesn't work exactly like that here. We filled up our bags with treats we just couldn't not get. Unfortunately (or fortunately) our purchases didn't make it to Guayaquil!

 Arri

Arriving at the hotel, we soon realized that when the sun is gone, it's quite cold at 4000 meters high!

Charming as we are, we got our host to build us a fire. And Soa didn't have 3 nor 5, but 7 "carpet-blanket" in her bed!

For those who weren't aware, one of our blanket in Guantubamba was litteraly a carpet!

The next morning, Soa complained a bit about the altitude but Simon is pretty sure it's because she ate all that cheese and chocolate the night before.

So we let our princess sleep and dream under her magic carpets while Simon went climbing to the highest point of Salinas for a great view.

What was up there was unexpected.

 

And like any proud Bedard, Simon had to go just a little bit further in the wolf throat...

Because indeed, what seemed like the end of the road, was not. Behing the tip of the hill was two huge valleys circa-Jurassic park.

No choice: A Bedard flag had to be put at the top of the prohibited road for adventurous strangers!

Behind trees, in the valley

Simon likes to discover the unknown

Camping-like spot in between mountains

And then the trip was over, Soa and Simon left because anyways, the day was getting higher in altitude.

Four hours of suffering was upon them. The reason: a driver who never really learned how to drive with a stick and who has never been warned about his "flaw".

Do you remember the first time you tried driving manual? Lost between the brake, the "clutch" and the accelerator. Well, I bet your dad, mom or teacher remembers it!

We really wanted to tell the driver how wrong it was all, but we got scared we would be thrown out!

So we didn't quite enjoy the view on the way back. But it didn't ruin our adventure; it even made us appreciate more Guayaquil's heat wave!

See you soon!

La residencia (parte dos) : documentos y procesos (English)

Hola Chicos! 

So here we go for the second part of our ecuadorian bureau-crazy!
Here's the seed that will start the entire project, will start everything we will grow, build, breathe; the main course.

Like we've mentionned in the last blog, we've decided to ride the big train, the residency through the professional visa (9-V).

Simon was dying to get his Bachelor degree which was already a month late. Without it, Simon would have to apply for an entire different visa from Soa; possibilities were not only very expensive, but way more complex.
And it arrived, the day of his grandmother's funeral, a piece of paper that would open doors to our future here.

Thank you Mamie!

So here are all the steps and documents that would fill up with joy (and bureaucracy) our next two months:

Documents needed:

University degrees (originals)

Copy (color) of the notarized degrees in Canada and Ecuador

Passport copies

Criminal background check translated and notarized (reconocimiento de la firma)

2 passport photos

Steps:

1) Delivery of Simon's diploma in Quebec city, at Simon's parent

Emotional cost: Many emails, calls and visits to the university department pre-departure to ensure it will be taken care of.
Waiting time: Estimated time of arrival: Sept 2013 Actual time of arrival: End of october 2013

2) Finding an apartment in Guayaquil: the fanciest 1 room apartment in Ecuador!
Searching time: 4 intensive days in an overheated town
Main apartments visited: Horror movie

What we finally found:

Our simple King-Size bed

Endless kitchen

Infinite storage

Two blue chairs + pouf = hapiness

3) Getting our diplomas throughmail: Thanks Mom and Dad Bedard!

Cost: 68$ with Post Canada

+ 5$ with Correo del Ecuador (we suppose it's to pay for the rewrapping of the package they themselves unpacked!)

Waiting time: 14 days

4) Notarization of our diplomas: We are getting ready for one of the longest waiting period of our lives; it's so hot here... people are falling one by one like drunk flies... ambulances are flying one by one, full like tuna cans; but us, Spartans on ecuadorian land, we're going to make it!) :
Estimated cost: between 15US$ and 50US$
Estimated waiting time: between one day and 2 weeks 

Update: Both crazy sick friday morning, we couldn't follow our initial fight plan of being at the notary at dawn to do the line-up. So we went there at 3pm hoping for the best but very aware that we would have to come back on monday.
Surprise, surprise! No waiting line, the process only took few minutes and the notary, when Simon gave him a 20$ bill for a 2$ fee, told him he had no change and let him go freely without paying.....
It will probably the first and last time not having change will be profitable for us!

Final cost : Free
Waiting time: 10 minutes 

5) Criminal background check (translated and notarized): Technically would have to be delivered within the 180 days of residency. Ours is expired... but since we didn't leave Ecuador since we arrived, the government officials agree that it is physically impossible to commit criminal act in Canada. This detail might sounds uninteresting but it is quite useful and will make you save time, money and energy.  

Estimated cost: from 100 to 300$ (fee to renew the document, official translation, finger print in Ecuador and mailing fees
Estimated waiting time: 3 weeks

Final cost: 20$
Waiting time: 2 days

6) Autentification of our diplomas by the SENECYST (Secretaria nacional de education superior de sciencia, technologia y innovacion): to be continued...

7) Unbearable waiting time:

Estimated: From 15 to 45 working days

Like this iguana...

8) Submitting our documents to the ministerio : To be continued..

9) Unbearable waiting period

Like this cat, waiting for a cab...

10) Receiving our residency or Plan B

We will update this blog alot through the next week; you know, to make you guys feel what we feel. Don't hesitate to encourage us! Or to dig up through some clouds for us...you know, to lighten up the darkness!

Additional informations for whom it might concerned:

Imigration visa in Guayaquil :

1) Ministerio del Litoral (Gobierno Zonal de Guayaquil)

Warning: Contrairy to informations online, the office for foreigners visa is not on 9 de octubre street.

Gobierno del Litoral

Adress: Av Francisco De Orellana, 
Guayaquil, Guayas, Ecuador

Téléphone: (4) 2683870

Nb: Hard to find unless you know it's right in front of the World Trade Center of Guayaquil.

How to get there: All buses indicating Gob. del Litoral will get you there.  

World Trade Center

2) SENECYST in Guayaquil: 

The SENECYST adress recently changed. It is now located at the Plaza Quil, in front of the Policentro.

How to get there: Take any bus going to the policentro (there is a lot of them), it will bring you right in front of it.

Av. Carlos Luis Plaza Dañín y calle Francisco Boloña,

diagonal al C.C. Policentro

 Edificio del Sector Público del Sector Social “Joaquín Gallegos Lara”,

quinto piso 

Entrance on the Plaza Danin street

Here's the link to the SENECYST: http://www.educacionsuperior.gob.ec/titulos-obtenidos-en-el-extranjero/
Here's the link to the document to fill up and print 3 times: Solicitud escrita en el formato de la SENESCYT

3) Canada consulate in Équateur (Adresse in Guayaquil) :


How to get there:  Take any buses going to the Gobernio del litoral (see previously). 

Consulate of Canada / Consulat du Canada

Ave. Francisco de Orellana No. 234

Edificio Blue Towers , 6to. Piso, Of 604

Tel: (5934) 263 1109  Ext 101

Guayaquil, Ecuador

Contact: Paola Pástor 

Nb. : Edificio Blue towers also known for "Hotel Marriot" 

Email: cancongye@gmail.com

Website: http://www.Ecuador.gc.ca  

 4) Our notary in Guayaquil:

Notaria Trigesima

Nueve de Octubre 410, coin Chile

Edificio Vernaza, segundo piso

Nb. Next to ETA fashion
Nb.2 Go in the afternoon (speciallymnot in the morning) 
Nb.3 It's super fast!
Nb.4 Very cheap! 


5) Our translator in Urdesa 

How to get there: Take any buses that goes to Urdesa; get down at Las Monjas (where the Genesis building is (on the left)). Turn left on Las Monjas until Circunvalacion Sur. Turn right and walk to the #615. 

Tony Montané

Presidente Ejecutivo

ALONE S.A.

Urdesa Central-Edificio El Parque

Circunvalación Sur # 615-6B

(593-4) 288-4371, 288-4104

amontane@alonesa.com

Nb. Super efficient
Nb.4 Super fast
Nb.3 Full of useful infos
Nb. Cheapest in town (1/3 of the price)

La residencia (parte una)- English version

So here we are,
It has now been 2 weeks that we've been living here in Guayaquil, to start one of the most important step of our trip:

The residency process.

Warning: this blog will make your head turn. Keep in mind that we're living that for real!

In fact, the main theme of our two next blogs is: patience!

Let's step back few months in order to make a summary of our "road to the visa".

First step: Ecuadorian consulate in Montreal

In Canada, we applied for the"negocios" visa (12IX) of 6 months length. Our goal being to buy land and build an ecotouristic farm; therefore, an enterprise.

For the government, that would translates into "negocios" which is commercial exchange and investment.

The consulate of Ecuador in Montreal made us gather lots of paperwork to notarize and translate.

Documents we had to gather and their prices:

Quite expensive? Not that much if we're talking about potential residency. Mainly, the Ecuadorian consulate in Montreal assured us that we would be able to extend our visa upon arrival.
That extension was the magic key to residency.
Well it wasn't!
Our first visit to the government told us that things would be more complicated than that!
Our "negocios" visa (12-IX) couldn't be extended nor could it help to get our residency!

Back to the beginning.

We still don't get how an investor could build and put into action their business plan within 180 days but it sounded like the only option we could find.
Unless we decide to aim for residency. Which is what we decided to trigger here, in Guayaquil.

Second step: Collect of information

List and preliminary comprehension of ecuadorian residency visas:

Therefore, we understood that our best shot would be the visas 9-II and 9-III.

Because we came to invest;
Because we want to grow stuff;
Because buying land is real estate.

But: We learned that if you buy land with that visa, you can't make any change or alteration to it (hence build a house, start a garden) for a year!

But: We learned that we have to deposit a minimum of 3000$ in a state bank account and if we don't invest the full investment amount (25 000$ to 30 000$) within the next 180 days, we could lose our deposit and visa!

We thank our parents who teached us that contacts are better than anything else. Our little 2 month trip was worth it on many levels. Internet and embassies are complicated and fastidious informations are worth nothing next to the personal experience of people we met.
We met Andres at Rio Muchacho who became ecuadorian through the 9-II visa. That nice man bought 25 000$ worth of state bonds with 6% return per year. So not only does he get his residency out of it, the interest also covers his year expenses!
This is wonderful, unbelievable!

Yes, but...
If Andres wants to work in Ecuador, invest in Ecuador, get tan in Ecuador, is residency is conditional; the 25 000$ has to stay untouched. Because, any withdrawal from that investment would cancel his residency!

Then, we met Araceli from La Chocolata in Mompiche. Her husband and herself (two argentinians) made Ecuador their home a year ago and got easily their residency through the profesional Visa 9-V.

I'm sorry, what?
Are you telling us that you don't need to be member of a profesional order to apply for that visa?
You're telling us that all that is needed is university degree?

....
Or almost!

We will give you the process step for our residency in the next blog.
Meanwhile, we enjoy the boring view from our fancy appartment in the middle of Urdesa central in Guayaquil!